The next day, we took the bus to Guápiles. Breakfast naturally featured Gallo Pinto—beans and rice, a Costa Rican classic. Then came the boat ride to Tortuguero. The farther we went, the denser the jungle became. When we arrived in the village of Tortuguero, we immediately fell in love with this sleepy little place, its colorful houses, and friendly people.

Day three was dedicated entirely to the Tortuguero canals. In a small boat we glided over the still water as the silhouettes of palms and mangroves appeared in the morning mist. We saw countless birds—herons, toucans, perhaps even a kingfisher—and listened to the sounds of the rainforest. It was one of those tours where you sit in silent awe.

After our days in the jungle, we headed back to Guápiles. Lunch was a Casado—rice, beans, meat, plantains, and salad—by now almost our favorite dish. Then we picked up our rental car and drove to La Fortuna. In the afternoon, we explored the charming village and found a small family-run café. The coffee was so good that we stayed longer than planned, chatting with the owners.